I have one Victorian corset that fits and is used for 1830s-1890s. It works. Different shaped corsets for, at least, each decade would be better. Sadly, trying to make an 1890s corset and dress in a couple of weeks is a bit ambitious considering the last corset needed two tries and many alterations.
Thursday, February 18, 2016
Friday, November 20, 2015
Ladies Dress 4016 UFO Unboxed
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| Lots of pins and pieces |
If I finish the dress as is, I wonder if it would be easier to find some velvet trim for the stripes rather than try to make my own.
I'm also contemplating whether I could finish this dress this morning. Very doubtful.
I was able to find a few people who had made the dress. There may be quite a few more.
- https://virtudesigns.wordpress.com/2012/07/03/vpll-1912-dress-4016-the-emotional-rollercoaster/
- https://domesticnews.wordpress.com/2012/06/14/1912-dress-4016-summary/
- http://edwardiantime.blogspot.com/2014/06/dress-4016-questions.html
- http://knoodlessnoodles.blogspot.com/2012/11/vpll-1912-dress-4016.html
- https://tobybartondesigns.wordpress.com/2012/07/11/dress-4016-or-sewing-with-a-treadle-sewing-machine/
Cutwork collar
Thursday, February 12, 2015
Time Travel Historical Costume Approval Levels
Leimomi's post about what makes a garment historically accurate, made me think that there should be levels of accuracy for historical costuming. Here is my introduction to those levels. I'd like to think that I am close to Level 3, but in actuality I'm somewhere between Level 7 and 10.
Time Travel Historical Costume Approval Levels
Level 0. Unlimited: Passes close inspection, indistinguishable from clothing of that time period
Level 1. Limited brief encounters: Clothes are right style, color, construction, but do not pass close inspection. Chatting distance, keep walking.
Level 3. Limited distance: Would pass in photos and with distance. Possibly incorrect textile or other anachronisms. No close contact. Wave from afar.
Level 7. Night, dusk only: Obvious uncanny flaw to a sane person of the time period. Limit contact/sightings to the drunk, mad, and young children in dim lighting. "Is that ghost wearing my draperies?"
Not Approved for Travel
Level 10. Theatre-worthy: Looks the part, may have artistic liberties, gives the feeling of the time period. Costumers and historians see the discrepancies. May pass as historical to general modern population.
Level 20. Costume party: Hey, it kind of fits the theme. Good use of a sheet and pillow to make a bustle. Nice slutty Marie Antoinette!
Time Travel Historical Costume Approval Levels
Level 0. Unlimited: Passes close inspection, indistinguishable from clothing of that time period
Level 1. Limited brief encounters: Clothes are right style, color, construction, but do not pass close inspection. Chatting distance, keep walking.
Level 3. Limited distance: Would pass in photos and with distance. Possibly incorrect textile or other anachronisms. No close contact. Wave from afar.
Level 7. Night, dusk only: Obvious uncanny flaw to a sane person of the time period. Limit contact/sightings to the drunk, mad, and young children in dim lighting. "Is that ghost wearing my draperies?"
Not Approved for Travel
Level 10. Theatre-worthy: Looks the part, may have artistic liberties, gives the feeling of the time period. Costumers and historians see the discrepancies. May pass as historical to general modern population.
Level 20. Costume party: Hey, it kind of fits the theme. Good use of a sheet and pillow to make a bustle. Nice slutty Marie Antoinette!
Thursday, November 20, 2014
Butterick B6108 Retro 1912 Misses' Jacket Bib and Skirt
Xposted. Better photos may be taken later.
This photos is enhanced with an orange cone in the distance.
Unfortunately, the suit came out a little overexposed.
A better view of the hat
Butterick B6108 Retro 1912 Misses' Jacket Bib and Skirt
The suit came out okay. I used the wrong fabric and had to alter the jacket a lot. This pattern may be good for a regular to tall person. Being short, I had to shorten the jacket by 3" which eliminated the elegant elongated look from the pattern front. The armholes seemed too low. I moved mine up 1" and moved the shoulder seam in a little. I might have been able to go a size smaller on the top of the jacket, widening out for the hips. Cotton flannel was a bad choice as it stretches too much and the flannel and bias made the skirt pleats difficult. A tighter weave fabric would be better. Hang the skirt before hemming as the bias pieces may stretch making the front of the skirt longer than the back. Don't cheat and cut the front piece on the grain; the bias is needed for the snug fit at the top of the skirt while allowing some give. Be careful when matching plaid; when cutting out the front jacket pieces, the front side pieces are longer than the front center pieces because the sides and back have a hem allowance.
This photos is enhanced with an orange cone in the distance.
Unfortunately, the suit came out a little overexposed.
A better view of the hat
Butterick B6108 Retro 1912 Misses' Jacket Bib and Skirt
The suit came out okay. I used the wrong fabric and had to alter the jacket a lot. This pattern may be good for a regular to tall person. Being short, I had to shorten the jacket by 3" which eliminated the elegant elongated look from the pattern front. The armholes seemed too low. I moved mine up 1" and moved the shoulder seam in a little. I might have been able to go a size smaller on the top of the jacket, widening out for the hips. Cotton flannel was a bad choice as it stretches too much and the flannel and bias made the skirt pleats difficult. A tighter weave fabric would be better. Hang the skirt before hemming as the bias pieces may stretch making the front of the skirt longer than the back. Don't cheat and cut the front piece on the grain; the bias is needed for the snug fit at the top of the skirt while allowing some give. Be careful when matching plaid; when cutting out the front jacket pieces, the front side pieces are longer than the front center pieces because the sides and back have a hem allowance.
Sunday, November 16, 2014
Sunday, November 09, 2014
1910s Hat
To inspire me to finish altering my 1910s suit, I made a gray wool hat. It has a ridiculously large feather and looks like it needs to be sitting higher on the back of my head on top of a mass of hair. So, imagine it sliding forward a little and covering more of my forehead. Butterick B4697 1910-1915 Hat. I pieced together the wool for the crown of the hat.
The back of my head looks like all feather.
Stitching in the lining
The back of my head looks like all feather.
Stitching in the lining
Sunday, September 28, 2014
1912 Suit In Progress
First try and plaid doesn't match at all on the front side and front.
Decided I used the lining fronts and unstitched and used the other pieces which matched better, but not perfect.
What I totally messed up was that the side front piece was supposed to be 7/8" longer than the front piece. I eased the front side piece in instead of leaving it longer. So, one of those pieces might have matched better if I had sewn them together correctly. I didn't feel like ripping it out and sewing it a third time so I just shortened that front piece by about 7/8". I kind of regretted it later and wished I had resewn it. To fix now, I would have to cut out 4 more pieces and interfacings and unstitch/restitch.
The "Bib" with extra lace and ribbon around the collar. Still needs hooks and eyes in the back. Kind of like a dickie or chemisette. Only bound by the collar hook and eyes.
Still haven't finished the hem and buttonholes on the jacket. First thoughts are that this would look better on a taller, more slender person. Even though, I hemmed the skirt 1/2" higher in front, it still ended up longer in front. Pleats allow for walking. The top of the jacket is too big on me. The hips fit fine. Because the jacket is worn more like a dress, seems like the top should be closer fitting. That might mean taking in some of the sides and move the armholes up. That might mean taking in some of the sides and move the armholes up. And maybe the jacket should be an inch shorter. Hmmm... that sounds like a lot of work.
Decided I used the lining fronts and unstitched and used the other pieces which matched better, but not perfect.
What I totally messed up was that the side front piece was supposed to be 7/8" longer than the front piece. I eased the front side piece in instead of leaving it longer. So, one of those pieces might have matched better if I had sewn them together correctly. I didn't feel like ripping it out and sewing it a third time so I just shortened that front piece by about 7/8". I kind of regretted it later and wished I had resewn it. To fix now, I would have to cut out 4 more pieces and interfacings and unstitch/restitch.
The "Bib" with extra lace and ribbon around the collar. Still needs hooks and eyes in the back. Kind of like a dickie or chemisette. Only bound by the collar hook and eyes.
Still haven't finished the hem and buttonholes on the jacket. First thoughts are that this would look better on a taller, more slender person. Even though, I hemmed the skirt 1/2" higher in front, it still ended up longer in front. Pleats allow for walking. The top of the jacket is too big on me. The hips fit fine. Because the jacket is worn more like a dress, seems like the top should be closer fitting. That might mean taking in some of the sides and move the armholes up. That might mean taking in some of the sides and move the armholes up. And maybe the jacket should be an inch shorter. Hmmm... that sounds like a lot of work.
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